============ The Ogre Digest, July 10th (Last: July 4th) ============= ===== Ogre Terrain From: Steve Jackson From: SRKOALA@aol.com ===== Battlefields Raid From: "Hunt, Kirk (Tucson)" ===== Advice on painting miniatures. From: "bbell1@insight.rr.com" ===== Dealing With A Mark V's Missiles From: Servitor@aol.com From: AvaheilDotter@aol.com ===== Four Howitzer Defense From: "Herb Diehr" ============================== From: Steve Jackson Subject: Ogre Terrain Andrew Walters says . . . >I have yet to begin on this myself (though I have great plans!) but >one piece of advice for which I am thankful to White Rat is to use >those big ol' sheets of blue foam available at Home Despot and the like. Yes. That's the original building-type Styrofoam (tm). It has many advantages. BUT. Do not breathe the dust. And do NOT NOT NOT inhale the fumes if you use a hot wire to cut it. That's why GeoHex is made out of a relatively fragile material. It might be a better product if it were made out of Styrofoam, but to work that stuff safely is difficult, and would drive the price WAY up. Steve Jackson - yes, of SJ Games - yes, we won the Secret Service case Learn Web or die - http://www.sjgames.com/ - dinosaurs, Lego, Kahlua! The heck with PGP keys; finger for Geek Code. Fnord. ===== From: SRKOALA@aol.com Subject: Ogre Terrain > I have yet to begin on this myself (though I have great plans!) but > one piece of advice for which I am thankful to White Rat is to use > those big ol' sheets of blue foam available at Home Despot and the > like. The prices is the same as plywood, they weigh a lot less > (vital to those of us who drag our gear to cons) and can be worked > with non-power tools. They will take white glue just fine, so I > suspect the sawdust-and-glue will work great, but never, ever spray > paint the blue foam unless you've coated it with something else first. They are great to use, but if you're doing to do a alot of work with the foam, you may want to invest in a hot wire foam cutter. It makes it a very easy to cut the foam. Liquid Nails is outstanding for gluing layers togeather, add a few tooth picks and you have oustanding terrain that will ding, but will last. Take some antalope paint (it's a brown color, water based) and mix it half and half with water, then paint it on the foam. You can use the ground cover that model railroaders use (flcok) for ground covering, Woodland Scenics. Sprinkle the ground cover while the paint is wet and you have an instant hill. While more is needed to make it look really good, it is quick. You should also check into scuptimold (I think that is how it spelled) it is sort of like paper mache, but gives a much smoother finish, you can find it at most art supply stores or model railroad supply stores. A link for more information about the foam cutter and other items: http://www.woodlandscenics.com/flock.htm http://www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/785-1435 (you can find it for better prices at other sites. It also comes in another model that has a difrent shapped support frame) -Stephen ============================== From: "Hunt, Kirk (Tucson)" Subject: Battlefields Raid >I'll get him next time, I will... That's what I'm afraid of.... >From: "Andrew Walters" >How did you so easily take out eight SHVYs? Were they handled badly? >Were the dice malicious? Do you have a secret that we would pay >money for? > >Are you sure you'd take MHWZ+6xHVY for 8 SHVY? Maybe you mean MHWZ+12xHVY? > >Andrew Bad Dice and waltzing around with forested INF too long. By the time he got around to going after my soft underbelly, reinforcements had arrived.... Now that you mention it, make that 2xMHWZ+10xHVY Desercat ============================== From: "bbell1@insight.rr.com" Subject: Advice on painting miniatures. > From: Kevin Walker > I have toooooo many historicals that have camouflage schemes that I tire > of them (and correctly done the details of the miniatures tend to > disappear). I can relate. I have used 2 camo schemes for my miniatures I use in Dirtside II. If you look at the Mountain Pebble (4 tone grey) or Mountain Stone (grey-black swirls) on http://www.ftsr.org/ds2/gallery/ you can see how a good camo scheme obliterates the details. ----- Brian Bell ----- ============================== From: Servitor@aol.com Subject: Dealing With A Mark V's Missiles > To recap: First you kill the mains, then you kill the treads and then > you win. Yup. Just happened to me recently (I was the Ogre). The only way to avoid this nightmare is to sideslip a lot and resist the urge to salvo your missiles early (unless your opponent is foolish enough to stack his GEVs) and move aggresively towards the CP every turn. Every hex you DON'T move towards the CP is another hex for the GEVs to attack you in. Faced with this, the defense player will have to make tough choices as the Ogre gets close to missile launch range. Don't overrun the defenders unless its near to the end of the game and they're just rushing out in front of you in an attempt to stall. best, flunky (Servitor@aol.com) ===== [Stack? Sounds like GEV rules to me. Against a "Fuzzy" all GEV force, proper use of the missiles is very important, because they are the only two-turn weapon in the Ogre's quiver. The guns are very easy to use, move up and blast them and it usually works, but a missile has a one in three chance of not killing a GEV. Because of this, you should never missile a GEV that you won't chase after and kill off with a secondary battery the next turn and you should use up all of your missiles before you lose move three. (Afterwards the GEVs might recover before your secondaries can get them.) -HJC] ===== From: AvaheilDotter@aol.com Subject: Dealing With A Mark V's Missiles << [With an all hover force against the Mk-V the important point is to apply agility to prevent the full use of the secondary batteries. >> One problem with the all hover strategy is finding places to put the things in the Ogre-no stacking board. There are only 2 optimum hexes to go to and the rest risk either allowing the Ogre lots of target practice while the rest of the hovers are out of range, or being out of range while the Ogre charges closer to victory. ============================== From: "Herb Diehr" Subject: Four Howitzer Defense > To recap: First you kill the mains, then you kill the treads and then > you win. -HJC] With respect, I disagree. The four-howitzer defense, reinforced by missile tanks, with hidden mine fields near the howitzers, will win frequently. First, attack the secondaries with infantry outside howitzer range (barely!) and then move in with them. A couple of infantry units per turn, forming a gauntlet. Once secondaries are gone, then mains. If he doesn't use the missiles, then them. Mines should take some treads and the missile tanks and howitzers should take many. Usually enough. Herb Diehr The Dire Wolf ===== [Most players who use Missile Tanks, combine them with Heavy Tanks. An Ogre that charges into that can find itself at the receiving end of very serious firepower and the two types of tanks have got good odds against the type of guns that get the best odds against the other type. With an all GEV force on the other hand, your total firepower and your opportunities to use it is so limited that you must strike at a very restricted list of targets and in a specific order. BTW: GEVs are the best unit to (ab)use hidden mines. "Think you can just run away, eh?" Chase. BOOM! -HJC] Henry J. Cobb ogre@sjgames.com Archives at http://www.io.com/~hcobb All OGRE-related items Copyright (c) 2001, by Steve Jackson Games.